Skin Care in Naperville, IL

SkinMedica

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Revision Skincare

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Epionce

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Avene

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Nutrafol

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Elta MD

Skinade

UPNEEQ

Retail Cosmeceuticals – What’s in the stuff we recommend

Why Do We Care About Our Skin

• UV radiation (sun) causes damage that accelerate the aging of the skin, injury to skin resulting in photo-damage. The damage disrupts the normal architecture of connective tissue within the dermis
• Wrinkles, pigmentation, sagging, surface roughness
• Cosmeceuticals – topical cosmetics intended for cleansing, beautifying, and promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. They require a licensed physician to dispense.

Growth Factors

• What: regulator proteins that mediate signaling pathways between and within cells.Huh?: materials within our body that regulate tissue repair and regeneration – and you need several since they work synergistically (together).How: Accelerates wound healing (sun damage) and rejuvenate aging skin. Stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin
• Expect: Reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. Reduction in pigmentation
• Best results: use in conjunction with Peels, Microdermabrasion, and Laser photorejuvenation
• Risks: none to date unless allergic to substance
• Issues: Difficult to keep GF stable and active, New pumps solve the problem.

Retinoids

• What: Beta-carotene derivative of which Vitamin A is the active metabolite as well as synthetic analogs. Retinol, retinaldehyde, retinal esters, retinoic acid (Rx Retin A)
• Huh?: naturally occurring compounds that influence gene expression patterns in the skin to induce collagen expression and elastic fiber components
• Yeah Right?: works with your cells genetic material repair and remodel photo-damaged skin.
• Expect: skin becomes smoother, thicker, dark blemishes become lighter which results in more even and younger skin
• Cosmetic use – treats photo damage
• Dermatological uses: acne and psoriasis
• Risks: irritation – stinging and burning (start at low concentrations)
• Prescription Retin A can cause birth defects – no worries with cosmetic use while trying to conceive

Antioxidants

• What: prevents the oxidate stress to the skin (UV radiation, genetic and environmental factors) that accelerates aging by damaging DNA, lipids, and proteins.
• Huh?: prevents free radicals from forming chain reactions that have the capability of damaging cells during the oxidation of other molecules.
• Yeah right?: protect against sun damage thereby resulting in reduction of redness and sunburn
• How?: protects your skin from sun damage
• Expect: Prevents sun damage / aging when used with Sunscreen!
• Types: ALA (alpha lipoid acid), coenzyme Q-10, polyphenols (flavonoids – grape seed / soy), idebenone, kinetin, Vitamins A,B,C and E and Coffeeberry.
• Risks: None

Vitamin E

• What: Major lipophilic antioxidant in tissue – represents eight naturally occurring molecule whose major role is the arrest of chain propagation by scavenging lipid peroxyl radicals.
• Huh?: sun protection and skin surface protection
• Expect: Protection against sun damage thereby resulting in reduction of redness and sunburn
• Risks: allergic reactions and skin irritation – rare

Vitamin C

• What: Antioxidant, effects collagen and elastin synthesis, photo protective effects, anti-inflammatory
• Huh?: helps in many ways to prevent and treat sun damage to the skin
• Expect: Less fine lines and wrinkles, redness, pigmentation, and skin laxity.
• Risks: None

Vitamin B

• Family of niacinamide aka nicotinamide that is a water-soluble that penetrates the stratum corneum which effects metabolic enzyme reactions that potentially impact tissue factors. These reactions are potent antioxidants
• Huh?: mechanisms poorly understood – Helps improve the skins barrier functions, hyper pigmentation, sallowness (yellowing), texture improvement, Sebum reduction, wrinkle reduction – clearly improves many dermatological conditions including acne and Rosacea.
• Expect: Prevent photo damage, reduces hyper pigmentation and yellowing. Improves skin texture and oiliness while reducing fine lines. Enhances the skin’s natural barriers and reduces irritation.
• Risks: burning or stinging, some react to the additives that are used with it.

Sunscreen

Chemical and Physical

• Chemical: contains chemicals that absorb UVA and UVA radiation by the skin
• Physical: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide that blocks UV radiation
• Huh?: protects the skin from the ravages of the sun
  As little as 15 minutes of sun exposure a day causes damage
• Expect: Less color changes as well as lines, wrinkles, aging, and cancer
• Risks: none

Brightener

• What?: Materials that target melanogenesis pathways thereby reducing melanin in the skin
• Huh?: Reduces the appearance of skin discoloration and dark spots
• Expect: Significant reduction in color of the skin especially when used in conjunction with facial peels and laser photo rejuvenation (IPL)
• Lytera – 8 different ingredients that work four different ways to reduce pigmentation in the skin.

AHA

• What? Alpha Hydroxy Acids – group of organic acids with exfoliating properties that turn over cells in the stratum corneum.
• Huh?: Reduces build-up and removes dead skin reducing the thickness of the surface.
  Additional effects: moisturize the skin
• Expect: Smoother skin, less fine lines and wrinkles, reduced mottled pigmentation, and skin sallowness (sickly yellowish color).
  Works well in conjunction with retinoids
• Risks: Can have an effect on skin barrier function? – theoretical